Collection: 100ft LED Strip Lights

A single 100ft reel eliminates the need to splice and connect multiple shorter reels, reducing wiring complexity, the number of power feeds and drivers required, and the risk of brightness variation at connection points. For large installations like perimeter cove lighting, rooflines, and long hallways, a continuous reel produces the most uniform result with the fewest components.

Choose 120V for the simplest installation — no driver needed, and runs up to 165 feet are supported from a single connection without voltage drop. Choose 24V when you need smoother dimming, COB dotless output, RGB color options, or finer cut increments, but plan for power injection at both ends for any run over 32–40 feet. 12V is not recommended for 100ft installations due to significant voltage drop.

Not without power injection. A single 24V driver feed supports up to 32–40 feet before voltage drop causes visible brightness loss at the far end. For a 100ft 24V run, use power injection — feeding power at multiple points along the strip from a single high-wattage driver or multiple drivers wired in parallel. Alternatively, divide the installation into separate 30–40 foot zones, each with its own driver.

Yes — 120V LED strip lights maintain consistent brightness across their full run length (up to 165 feet) because line voltage minimizes the resistive losses that cause voltage drop on 12V and 24V systems. This makes 120V the most practical choice for true continuous 100ft runs without any additional power injection or mid-run drivers.

The most common applications include perimeter cove and tray ceiling lighting in large rooms, roofline and soffit outlining for residential and commercial exteriors, retail perimeter shelf lighting, trade show and event lighting, and long hallway or corridor accent lighting. Anywhere a single continuous run needs to cover more than 40 feet without interruption is an ideal use case for 100ft reels.

Yes — IP65 and IP67-rated 100ft reels are available for outdoor use. These are especially popular for roofline outlining, façade lighting, and large landscape perimeters where running multiple low-voltage drivers and power injection points would be impractical. Always verify both the strip and any connection hardware carry appropriate IP ratings for the installation environment.

Yes, but dimming method depends on voltage. 24V versions use a PWM low-voltage dimmer or dimmable driver. 120V versions require a line-voltage LED wall dimmer rated for the strip's wattage and internal rectifier type — standard low-voltage dimmers are not compatible. Confirm dimmer compatibility before purchase if smooth, flicker-free dimming is a priority.

Cut increments vary by voltage. 24V strips typically have cut marks every 3–4 inches, offering reasonable precision for custom lengths. 120V strips have cut marks every 18–36 inches — much less frequent — so precise measurements before cutting are critical. Never cut between marked intervals on any strip; doing so will damage that segment of the circuit.

At minimum, plan for power injection at both ends of the 100ft run, which can be fed from a single high-wattage driver if the driver's output wattage covers the full strip load. For very high-density strips or runs requiring tighter brightness uniformity, divide into 3–4 zones of 25–33 feet each, with a dedicated driver per zone. Always size each driver to at least 120% of the connected strip's wattage.

Yes — RGB and RGBW 100ft reels are available in 24V configurations. For long RGB runs, 24V is strongly preferred over 12V because it reduces the color shift that can occur from voltage drop at the far end of the strip. 120V RGB strip options exist but are less common. For most large color-changing perimeter applications, 24V with power injection at both ends is the standard approach.