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Metal Halide to LED Conversion Guide: Wattage Equivalents Explained

Metal Halide to LED Conversion Guide: Wattage Equivalents Explained

If you are still using Metal Halide (MH) or High-Pressure Sodium (HPS) lamps, you are likely dealing with high electricity bills, frequent bulb failures, and that frustrating 10-minute "warm-up" period every morning.

Upgrading to LED is no longer just about energy savings—it’s about better light quality and zero maintenance. However, since LED technology produces significantly more light (lumens) per watt, choosing a replacement isn't as simple as matching the old wattage.

Why Bulb Shape Matters for Your Conversion

When retrofitting, the most common mistake is focusing only on lumens. In reality, how the light is distributed (the beam angle) determines how many watts you actually need to maintain your existing light levels.

  • Omnidirectional (360°): These shine light in all directions and rely on your old fixture's reflectors to bounce light back down. They are less efficient but necessary for certain fixtures.
  • Directional (120°–180°): These push light directly toward the floor. They are significantly more efficient because no light is "wasted" bouncing around inside the housing.

Master Conversion Charts by Bulb Type

A. Omnidirectional Corn Bulbs (360° Light)

Best for: Post Tops, Bollards, and Wall Packs where the light needs to fill the entire fixture housing.

corn bulbs

Traditional HID LED Corn Bulb Energy Savings Notes
70W MH 20W – 27W 70% Standard for bollards/walkways.
100W MH 27W – 36W 73% Ideal for standard wall packs.
175W MH 45W – 54W 74% Common for large decorative post tops.
250W MH 80W – 100W 68% High-output area lighting.
400W MH 120W – 150W 70% Requires large fixture housing for heat.

B. Directional Retrofits (Horizontal Mounting)

Best for: Wall Packs and Shoebox fixtures. These are mounted sideways (horizontally) and often feature panels that "open" or rotate to push all light forward and down, away from the back of the fixture.

directional retrofit bulbs

Traditional HID LED Directional Energy Savings Notes
100W MH 25W – 30W 75% Ideal for standard building wall packs.
175W MH 40W – 50W 76% Standard for area shoebox lighting.
250W MH 60W – 80W 76% High-output for parking lot retrofits.
400W MH 100W – 120W 75% Replaces heavy-duty flood lighting.

C. High Bay Retrofits (Vertical Mounting)

Best for: Indoor High Bays and "Bell" fixtures. These are mounted vertically (pointing downward). While many provide a circular beam, specialized versions feature adjustable panels that can be angled outward to provide sideways illumination in larger open areas.

high bay retrofit bulbs

Traditional HID LED High Bay Energy Savings Notes
175W MH 40W – 60W 71% – 76% Replaces 175W in mid-height ceilings.
250W MH 80W – 100W 66% – 73% "Sweet spot" for shop floors.
400W MH 100W – 150W 69% – 75% Standard warehouse/factory replacement.
1000WMH 300W – 450W 63% – 70% Extreme output for stadiums & hangars.

D. Filament Retrofit Lamps (300°+ Light)

Best for: Fixtures where preserving the original light distribution is critical. These match the physical size and light center of MH bulbs to work perfectly with existing reflectors.

filament retrofit bulbs

Traditional HID LED Filament Energy Savings Bulb Shape
50W MH 18W 64% A21 (Standard)
100W MH 26W 74% ED28 (Large)
175W MH 54W 69% ED37 (Mogul)
250W MH 63W 75% ED37 (Mogul)

Technical Checklist for a Successful Retrofit

  • Ballast Bypass (Type B): Most of these lamps run on direct voltage (120-277V). You must bypass the old ballast to eliminate a common failure point and maximize energy savings.
  • Base Size (E26 vs. EX39):
    • E26 (Medium): Standard screw base for lamps under 50W.
    • EX39 (Mogul): Large industrial screw base for high-wattage fixtures.
  • CCT & Wattage Selectability: Look for "Performance Class" lamps with physical switches. This lets you choose between 3000K, 4000K, or 5000K and adjust brightness on the fly.
  • Safety Rating: If the bulb is going into a sealed wall pack or post top, ensure it is rated for enclosed fixtures to prevent overheating.

Stop Paying for "Warm-Up" Time

Retrofitting your existing HID fixtures with LED lamps is one of the fastest ways to achieve a positive ROI. You get instant-on performance, better color accuracy (CRI >80), and you'll likely never climb a ladder to change these bulbs again. Explore our full collection of LED HID Replacement Lamps or contact our experts at 855-303-0665 for a bulk quote and technical support.

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Frequently Asked Questions

Do I have to remove the old ballast when installing an LED HID replacement?

Yes, for most professional-grade retrofits (Type B). Bypassing the ballast ensures that you are running the LED lamp on direct line voltage. This not only eliminates a common failure point but also prevents the ballast from "phantom" energy draw, maximizing your electricity savings.

What is the difference between an E26 and an EX39 base?

E26 is the standard "medium" screw base used in most residential bulbs. EX39 (and E39) is the larger "mogul" base found in high-wattage industrial fixtures. When ordering, check your existing socket; if the bulb is roughly the size of a soda can or larger, it almost certainly requires an EX39 mogul base.

Can I use these LED lamps in a fully enclosed fixture?

Only if the lamp is specifically "enclosed rated." LED components are sensitive to heat. In a sealed wall pack or post-top, heat can build up and shorten the life of the driver. Always check the product specifications for an enclosed rating to ensure the internal cooling fans or heat sinks can handle the environment.

Why are my LED retrofit bulbs flickering?

Flickering is often a sign of a ballast compatibility issue or a loose wiring connection. If you are using a "plug-and-play" (Type A) bulb, the old ballast may be failing. If you have bypassed the ballast, ensure that the line voltage is stable and that you aren't using a standard incandescent dimmer, as HID replacements require specialized 0-10V dimmers if dimming is desired.

How do I know if I should use a "Corn Bulb" or a "UFO" fixture?

If your existing fixture housing (the metal "box" or "bell") is in good shape and you want to save money on labor, use a Corn Bulb. If your old fixture is rusted, has a cracked lens, or if you want the highest possible efficiency with a modern look, it is better to replace the entire unit with a UFO LED High Bay.